The Pro Farmer

Natural pesticides for plants

Organic pesticides

Organic pesticides are usually considered as pesticides that come from natural sources.

These natural sources are usually plants, minerals, fungus and bacteria.

Even if a product is considered to be organic, it is still a pesticide.

It is important to be careful when using any pesticide, even organic or natural pesticides.

Just because a product is thought to be organic, or natural, does not mean that it is not toxic.

Some organic pesticides are toxic, or even more toxic, than many synthetic chemical pesticides.

Organic pesticides are different from conventional pesticides in terms of the materials used during pesticide

treatments.

While “traditional” pesticides are based on sprays and preparations with high concentrations of toxins, organic

pesticides use substances that have lower concentrations of toxins, and therefore break down faster, and

Accordingly, their damage to the environment, animals and humans is lower when working with organic sprays.

Organic spraying is not a completely natural spraying, as many people mistakenly think.

Although it is an environmentally friendly pesticide, more than the conventional pesticide, it is based on

substances that in the process of synthesis have become toxic chemicals, such as pyrethroids, which are a group of

pesticides extracted from sources found in nature in their raw form.

These are the pesticides that are allowed to be used in large scale, organic cultivations, and that organic farmers are allowed to use when spraying their plants:

Pay attention that these are not homemade pesticides, that some claim work,

but real professional ones, that are selling and proven to work, on a regular basis.

Note that organic pesticides are sometimes less efficient than the regular synthetic ones.

COPPER SULFATE – controls powdery mildew, downy mildew, early blight, late blight, septoria leaf spot, and also slugs and snails.

METALDEHYDE – controls slugs and snails

IRON PHOSPHATE – controls slugs and snails

AZADIRACHTIN – controls rust mites, thrips, white fly, aphids, leaf miner

BACILLUS THURINGIENSIS – controls caterpillars

BEAUVERIA BASSIANA – controls aphids, whitefly, thrips

NEEM OIL – controls powdery mildew, late blight, Alternaria leaf spot/early blight, spider mites, white fly, aphids, thrips, leaf miner, caterpillars, tomato leaf mold, mealybugs, septoria leaf spot

SULFUR – controls powdery mildew, rust mites and a bit of spider mites

SPINOSAD – controls thrips, leaf miners and caterpillars

POTASSIUM SALT OF FATTY ACIDS – controls thrips, aphids, mealybugs,

COPPER HYDROXIDE – controls bacterial leaf spot, alternaria leaf spot, septoria leaf spot

BACILLUS SUBTILIS – controls grey mold, powdery mildew, tomato leaf mold, alternaria leaf spot, septoria leaf spot

MINERAL OIL – powdery mildew, spider mites, white fly, tomato leaf mold, alternaria leaf spot, mealybugs, septoria leaf spot

Pyrethrin (pyrethrum)– controls spider mites, white fly, caterpillars

Paraffinic oil – controls spider mites, white fly, mealybugs

Isaria fumosoroseus – controls aphids, thrips

Hydrogen Peroxide/ Dioxide – controls grey mold, downy mildew, late blight, tomato leaf mold

Bacillus Popilliae – controls Japanese beetle grubs

Trichoderma – prevents fusarium crown rot, dumping off

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